Surfing, alone among sports, generates laughter at its very suggestion, and this is because it turns not a skill into an art, but an inexplicable and useless urge into a vital way of life.
– Matt Warshaw, Maverick’s: The Story of Big-Wave Surfing
Surfing, alone among sports, generates laughter at its very suggestion, and this is because it turns not a skill into an art, but an inexplicable and useless urge into a vital way of life.
– Matt Warshaw, Maverick’s: The Story of Big-Wave Surfing
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